Food & Chefs: Breaking Chews! Garden & Gun Club

Image Credit: David Danzig

Published by: David Danzig on Friday May 18th, 2018

David Danzig

BELINDA SKELTON’S ATLANTA LIVING—Garden & Gun Club

Many a southern are familiar with the magazine, Garden & Gun.   This magazine spawned somewhat of a southern cultural revolution with beautiful writing and pictures of a rustic, yet upscale southern lifestyle, paying homage to art, horticulture and, yes, hunting.  And now, over at The Battery next to Sun Trust Park comes the first physical incarnation of the magazine with the Garden & Gun Club

Breaking Chews!  Garden & Gun ClubBreaking Chews!  Garden & Gun Club

This is a shrine of style, design and amazing food.  An outdoor patio welcomes you to one of the most handsome dining rooms in the city—dark woods, rich leathers, marble, and brass.  An ice-filled trough of raw seafood rounds out a circular bar, half of which protrudes into the dining room, the other half into a small lounge area where you can enjoy craft cocktails named for R.E.M. songs.  Like the magazine, the atmosphere is high brow but clubby with small brick-a-brack and taxidermy throughout the restaurant (including mounted heads in the bathrooms!).  It’s masculine but also has a woman’s design touch.  And the soundtrack is southern-influenced rock (think “Cinnamon Girl” by CSNY). 

Breaking Chews!  Garden & Gun ClubBreaking Chews!  Garden & Gun Club

The spectacular menu is a design of two-star chefs from Charleston, Mike Lata and Adam Nemirow of FIG and The Ordinary fame.  Many southern staples shine:  pimento cheese and boiled peanuts.  Raw oysters and turkey neck gumbo.  Buttermilk fried quail and cornmeal-fried white shrimp.  And gourmet club sandwiches served on TGM bread like BLT, crab salad or steak tartare are staggeringly simple yet remarkably satisfying.  For dessert banana pudding with peanut butter whipped cream and rhubarb pie are magnificent.  The flavors are hearty and the dishes are beautiful without an ounce of aw-shucks pretention or deep south cliché.  They just feel right for the moment.

Breaking Chews!  Garden & Gun ClubBreaking Chews!  Garden & Gun Club

 have to admit I had modest expectations for Garden & Gun Club.  To take the unique voice and style of a hit publication and translate the energy and creativity into a small, defined brick and mortar space is no small feat.  But I have to say, they achieved the vision across the board.  Whether or not there is a game, Garden and Gun is an absolute must on your ATL restaurant list.    

Breaking Chews!  Garden & Gun ClubBreaking Chews!  Garden & Gun Club

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